Bold and Brash

Colour in Fashion 1770–1990

After 2021’s exploration of the colour blue, the Museum’s 2022 exhibition focuses on colour again, but this year we are multi-coloured. It features garments from 1770 to 1990 and we examine the changing availability of dyes to create these varied and beautiful colours.

In the past the palette was limited to dyes which could be made from plants and other vegetable matter. There is no green dye in nature, yet our earliest exhibit this year, a sumptuous mantua (soft-bodied gown) with a floral design from around 1770, has a rich green base. This effect was created by dyeing the yarn in indigo and then overdyeing with yellow.

The introduction of synthetic dyes only began in the mid-nineteenth century. Our exhibition demonstrates this remarkable shift by showing two fine purple crinolines. The colour of the first, dated around 1850, has been achieved by weaving blue and pink threads together. The cloth of the second crinoline from about 1862 shows the first use of the synthetic mauvine dye. This dye was discovered by accident by a chemist William Perkins, who was doing research into quinine, and it made his fortune.

It was only at the beginning of the twentieth century that a synthetic black dye was produced. Before this, cloth had to be dyed with indigo and then overdyed repeatedly, depending on the cloth type. This made black cloth extremely expensive.

Nowadays, by using synthetic dyes and textiles, we can have any colour we like in our clothes. But we also know now how polluting making and using synthetic dyes is. We need to begin to reduce their use and return to using the natural vegetable materials much more in the future.

Use the arrows to browse through the pictures in the virtual tour, or go directly to a particular picture using the thumbnails at the bottom.

c.1985 Pink polyester dress

This dress illustrates the possibilities of polyester fibre. Because it can be thermo-set using heat and steam, permanent pleats can be produced.

c.1770 Mantua

This mantua is made from brocaded silk with a green ground. There was no green dye at this time, so the thread was first dyed in indigo and then over-dyed with yellow.

Detail of mantua

c.1864 Purple crinoline

This purple garment of silk taffeta is one of the first dyed with the synthetic aniline dye, mauvine, which was discovered accidentally in 1856 by William Perkins while researching quinine.

c.1930 Evening dress

This evening garment is entirely made of gold-coloured lace. Incorporating metallic thread into textiles became very popular in the 1920s and 1930s.

Detail of gold evening dress

c.1925 Sequinned evening dress

The straight silhouette is the fashionable style for all women at this time. This evening dress, entirely covered with metallic sequins, seems very daring in comparison with earlier styles.

Detail of sequinned evening dress

c.1810 Muslin dress

Muslin, and cotton in general, was the fashionable fabric at this time and white garments demonstrated wealth by indicating that the wearer had servants to launder them. This style was considered shocking because it revealed the movement of the wearer’s legs.

c.1955 Green evening gown

After the end of post-war rationing, a return to long evening wear was possible. Damask weave viscose fabric is used for a princess line gown.

c.1972 Orange T-shirt, denim waistcoat and Biba skirt

Biba clothing usually featured subdued colours but this multi-coloured print is an exception. The original wearer of the waistcoat cut off its sleeves and added the sequins.

Detail of Biba skirt

c.1850 Purple wedding gown

This purple gown shows the return to silk for fashionable dress. There was no purple dye at this time, so the colour was achieved by weaving blue threads in one direction and pink in the other, an effect called shot silk.

c.1910 Silk velvet garment

This garment is made to look like a loose coat over a tunic and blouse, but it is actually all one item. It is likely to have been worn by someone in the ‘avant garde’ set.

Detail of silk velvet garment

c.1980 Black cocktail dress with beaded and sequinned sleeves

This dress was designed by Mary McFadden. Black has become an everyday fashionable colour as advances in dying made it affordable.

Detail of sleeve of black cocktail dress

c.1965 Green cocktail dress

This party frock is made of nylon (polyamide). The dye is introduced into the textile while the substance is still a liquid.

c.1990 Leopard skin print evening dress

Revulsion at killing endangered species might nevertheless be accompanied by a liking for animal skin prints. This strapless evening dress is made possible by the use of elasticated fabric.

c.1990 Leopard skin print man’s jacket

Exotic prints invaded men’s as well as women’s wear. This velour jacket is worn over a purple shirt.

c.1940 WW2 dress

The reduced availability of fabric led to simplified clothes. A bright colour and some decoration helped to cheer up the wearer.

c.1965 Mary Quant multi-coloured plastic rain cape

Detail of Mary Quant cape

Photography by Michael Alexander